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Thursday, October 06, 2005


Goa...Goan...Gone

Why would anyone want to visit Goa, the ultimate beach destination in India, during the middle of the monsoons? I'm sure a lot of people will be asking that when I tell them that Shizuka and I visited there 2 weeks back. But, around these parts, going to Goa at this time of year is one the best kept secrets. There are a number of air and hotel packages, the tourists are gone, and the rains revive the foliage to a lush green.
Last weekend was our first time to Goa. The small state, which lies at the tip of Maharashtra and borders Karnataka, is approximately one hour by plane from Bangalore. So, I took a train from Bangalore as I hadn’t traveled in a train in about 8 years or so.The inexperience evidenced with me not even knowing if my ticket says boarding Chennai or boarding Bangalore.Anyways with a lot of confusion,calls to the agent ,speaking to the TT ,I finally got my berth.Slept through the night and sat by the door all day from 6 in the morning till 4.The train was as usual 3 hours late and my friend had already reached Goa. She had reached at 7 in the morning and I had at least a zillion calls from her. Although this was her 4th time traveling in India,this was the first time she was traveling alone.
I reached the station and quickly took a taxi and reached the hotel at Baga.It was unbelievably rainy in Bangalore, so I was a bit worried that it might be pouring in Goa too. But I arrived in an overcast, but surprisingly bright Goa. It may have been monsoon time, but it already felt like a beach vacation.With minimal knowledge of English,I was quite amazed at the hotel she has found for us.It was an amazing bargain.We had a decent room and the food was also quite nice.

The seas are quite turbulent during the rainy season, nevertheless we had opted to stay at a guesthouse about five minutes from the Baga beach. Our inn abutted the Goan beach, which provided the needed tranquil backdrop. The rains were absolutely beautiful, as long as I didn't have to get caught under them. It rained twice while we were there. Once late at night which was perfect as we were sipping on sake in the balcony and our perch was also perfect for watching the rains, which would start up without warning - like garden sprinklers on a timer - last for 30 seconds to five minutes, then stop. Another time it rained like crazy while we were at the beach. It was awesome with the sun setting, slight drizzle, we took cover in a shack and had some hot and nice masala chai.
Our first evening in Goa was devoted to food and spirits. Went to the beach and then went to calangute for some huge platters of seafood and made the most of the bounty of the sea, with shrimp, lobster, and freshwater fish figuring prominently in our meal. When in Goa, Shizuka and I were determined to check out the local food in its natural setting. However, the monsoons were going to make it a little difficult for us. First of all, many restaurants and beach-side food shacks close during the rainy season. Secondly, the threat of heavy rains discourages fisherman from venturing out to sea, thus leading to pricier fish and more seafood caught in shallow, murkier waters. So, we would have to be resourceful yet choosy. After living in India , one learns to be flexible.

Sunday’s itinerary included going to the beach. We went there right at 9 or so and were there till late evening. Went around a markets for a while and went to titos for dinner and dancing. Came back and crashed.
Monday, we decided to go to Anjuna beach. We took a taxi till there and we were ecstatic when we reached coz there was not a single soul there. We lazed around till late afternoon until our skin started throwing up some danger sirens and we realized we were both badly sunburnt.Took a taxi back to the hotel and hogged on goan fish curry and pork vindaloo’s at the hotel. Evening was walking around the markets again.Didnt shop much. Dinner was beautiful at a shack right at the beach.Gorged on the local lobster,king prawns and typical Goan delicacies like chicken rechado ,xacuti or pork vindaloo and sorpotel.And be warned if you decide to sample teh local brew of cashew @Feni@-its strong aroma and taste is definitely not for the faint of heart(including me). Of course, there are plenty of good excuses to go back, not the least of which is the incredible Goan food.
Our last mission, before we flew out of Goa on Tuesday afternoon, was to return to Calangute market to purchase some Goan Fenny,port wine and bebinca.
Goan food left definite memories on my tastebuds, so I hope I can get back there soon to try out all the other local fare that I might have missed.
Viva Goa!
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